What is all the FUSS about the Ruff?

Some people like it Ruff....

One of my favorite subjects and possibly one of my favorite design elements is the collar. My current love affair, for the past several years now.  The ruffle collar, these wonderous little fashion statements are as versatile and inovative as can be. And, it seems like I am not the only one who adores these fabulous collars, but can you blame us collar junkies? Whether attached or detachable, ruffle collars have been in an out of fashion for quite some time; and honestly will be forever.  We reinvent and put our own spins on this classic Elizabethan Collar, but you will always find one, somewhere.

A little history is in order, I would say....

HISTORY

Along with the Spanish Farthingale (which we covered in my last blog) and the corset, the ruff is another of the items that immediately spring to mind when people consider Elizabethan costume.

It started off in the 1530s and 40s as a modest ruffle on the neckband of a high-necked smock. It was of linen, like the smock, and often box-pleated. Later ruffs were separate garments that could be washed, starched, and set into elaborate figure-of-eight folds by the use of heated cone-shaped goffering irons.  At their most extreme, ruffs were a foot or more wide; these cartwheel ruffs required a wire frame called a supportasse or underpropper to hold them at the fashionable angle. By the end of the sixteenth century, ruffs were falling out of fashion in Western Europe, in favour of wing collars and falling bands. The ruff was banned in Spain under Philip IV. The fashion lingered longer in the Dutch Republic, where ruffs can be seen in portraits well into the seventeenth century, and farther east.

Now, these ruff's are not just found in Elizabethian garb, but adorn many Eastern European Folk Costumes, such as the Czech Republic's seen below.

Czech Republic Folk Costume (Wedding Processional)

Some of my personal favorites are done editorial style...I know, what a surprise!

While some other wonderful interpretations happen on the runway...

But perhaps my ultimate favorite place for ruffle collars, are on children...

I hope you have enjoyed the breif history and the various pictures.   Stay tunned for next weeks topic, Headpieces....will be a visual extravaganza!

Check out this VERY easy tutorial on how to make an Elizabethan Ruff with some grosgrain ribbon and thread, although 10 minutes in length, well worth the watch for any DIY lovers.  For, all you more adventurous types, can find actual methods for starching and goffering (hot iron) ruff's on YouTube.com