Traditional Hungarian Folk art in todays Haute Couture...

Matyo Motif

European folk costumes may seem strange to some people.  Bizzare blouses, or headpieces may look a bit out of place in todays modern fashion world.  But I would beg to differ.  I find folk costumes (especially from Eastern Europe and Russia) are sought after by many prominint designers from Valentino to Dior.

I grew up in a very Hungarian household, where folk costumes were part and parcel of my heritage and culture.  It was a symbol of pride and I remember counting down the years till I was old enough to dance with the Hungarian dancing troupe and wear these gorgeous folk costumes...it still represents a massive amount of pride when I see fashion houses using the motifs and designs of the various National Folk Costumes of Hungary.  Or when celebrities are wearing Hungarian motifs.  

Hungarian Folk Costumes, which are called Diszmagyar (Disz - means ornament or ornamentation, Magyar is the true name of the Hungarians) are rich and elaborate, colorful and regal...and I am in love!  Each region, has it's own folk dress, and within that each has several folk dresses for different functions (Each holiday has a different folk costume, each life stage has a different folk costume) thus in one region or even village, you could potentially have 7-10 different versions of folk costumes alone!  Considering the plethora of folk costumes, I will focus on one of the most popluar and colorful costumes; Kalocsai and in the near future the Matyo.

Kalocsai.  

Kalocsai motifs are borrowed from nature.  Clusters of grapes, lilacs, lily of the valley, roses, forget me nots, violets, etc... are the primary flora in the embroidery.  The intresting part is that in a folk art style, they are also made to capture different angles of these flowers.  Side views as well as aireal views.  The Kalocsa embroidery became rather popular and by the end of the 19th century it went through many innovative changes.  They combined the two needlework styles, the ones with holes (as to look like lace) and solid embroidery.

As the artisans became more creative and a treasury of motifs appeared.  Tulips, Lilies, Paprika, shaves of Wheat and Corn.  At the beginning of the 20th century vibrant colors started to appear.  Green, pink, yellow and red gained favoritisim, as before it was mainly white on white embroidery.  However, the "holed embroidery" remained white in color.

Another intresting bit of information, is though black is generally worn for mourning in most cultures, in Hungary black dresses were used in as Wedding dresses and other special occassions.  White was reserved for funerals, etc...  Although that has changed quite a bit in the past several decades.  You can still find area's in Hungary were women wear black wedding dresses and white for mourning the passing of loved ones.

Variations of apron embroidery

layers and layers of heavy linens and cottons that have been stiffened and goffered

Variation of a Kalocsai apron.  

Vibrant and colorful needlework of the Kalocsai Nepviselet (folk costume)

The top layer can be any color, making an incredible vibrant folk dress even more vibrant!

Women wear these intricate bows or embroidered caps on their heads as part of the Kalocsai dress.

Modern Kalocsa Dress, Worn by Nicole Kidman

Hungarian Motif Inspired, worn by Nicole Kidman

Christian Dior Cocktail Dress 1948

Stars LOVE the Kalocsa embroidery, these modern versions can be purchased online, or in Hungary itself.

Soon, I will bring you one of my other favorites.  The Matyo folk costume, which is a bit more fun, as I child I use to call it the "pom-pom headdress" Here is a quick preview picture!

Matyo Headdress

Various Matyo Folk Costume for men and women.

What is all the FUSS about the Ruff?

Some people like it Ruff....

One of my favorite subjects and possibly one of my favorite design elements is the collar. My current love affair, for the past several years now.  The ruffle collar, these wonderous little fashion statements are as versatile and inovative as can be. And, it seems like I am not the only one who adores these fabulous collars, but can you blame us collar junkies? Whether attached or detachable, ruffle collars have been in an out of fashion for quite some time; and honestly will be forever.  We reinvent and put our own spins on this classic Elizabethan Collar, but you will always find one, somewhere.

A little history is in order, I would say....

HISTORY

Along with the Spanish Farthingale (which we covered in my last blog) and the corset, the ruff is another of the items that immediately spring to mind when people consider Elizabethan costume.

It started off in the 1530s and 40s as a modest ruffle on the neckband of a high-necked smock. It was of linen, like the smock, and often box-pleated. Later ruffs were separate garments that could be washed, starched, and set into elaborate figure-of-eight folds by the use of heated cone-shaped goffering irons.  At their most extreme, ruffs were a foot or more wide; these cartwheel ruffs required a wire frame called a supportasse or underpropper to hold them at the fashionable angle. By the end of the sixteenth century, ruffs were falling out of fashion in Western Europe, in favour of wing collars and falling bands. The ruff was banned in Spain under Philip IV. The fashion lingered longer in the Dutch Republic, where ruffs can be seen in portraits well into the seventeenth century, and farther east.

Now, these ruff's are not just found in Elizabethian garb, but adorn many Eastern European Folk Costumes, such as the Czech Republic's seen below.

Czech Republic Folk Costume (Wedding Processional)

Some of my personal favorites are done editorial style...I know, what a surprise!

While some other wonderful interpretations happen on the runway...

But perhaps my ultimate favorite place for ruffle collars, are on children...

I hope you have enjoyed the breif history and the various pictures.   Stay tunned for next weeks topic, Headpieces....will be a visual extravaganza!

Birdcage, Not just for our feathery friends...

Fashion, style, design...these are my passion.  To imagine and then create beauty!  But today we will be focusing on what is known today as the Birdcage skirt. First, I will share a brief history as well as the several "original" names of the birdcage skirt.

HISTORY
The Spanish vertugado, from which "farthingale" derives, was a hoop skirt originally stiffened with the subtropical Giant Cane; later designs in the temperate climate zone were stiffened with osiers (willow cuttings), rope, or (from about 1580) whalebone. The name vertugado comes from the Spanish verdugo, "green wood", although it also means "executioner" and in modern times that's the more common meaning of the term.
The earliest sources indicate that Joan of Portugal started to use verdugadas with hoops in Spain. Joan had provoked much criticism as she allegedly wore dresses that displayed too much décolletage, and her wanton behaviour was considered scandalous. When she started to use farthingales, court fashion followed suit. As Joan had two illegitimate children by Pedro de Castilla y Fonseca, rumors abounded that she used the farthingale to cover up a pregnancy. The earliest images of Spanish farthingales show hoops prominently displayed on the outer surfaces of skirts, although later they merely provided shape to the overskirt. Catherine of Aragon brought the fashion into England on her marriage to Arthur, Prince of Wales, in 1501..
Spanish farthingales were an essential element of Tudor fashion in England, and remained a fixture of conservative Spanish court fashion into the early 17th century (as exemplified by Margaret of Austria), before evolving into the guardainfante of 17th-century Spanish dress.  The farthingale in its various forms was worn from the late 15th century through the early 17th century, and panniers throughout the 18th century. Many of these were formal and elaborate styles, often worn at royal courts and by mid to higher levels of society.

Probably the earliest depiction of the Spanish verdugada. Pedro García de Benabarre, Salome from the St John Retable, Catalonia, 1470—80

 

leMarie Antoinette in a court dress of 1779 worn over extremely wide panniers.

The first crinolines were petticoats starched for extra stiffness, made out of the new crinoline fabric. They often had ruffles to support the skirts to the desired width. However, these fabrics were not stiff enough to support their own weight, which tended to collapse the petticoats out of shape. Extra rigidity was added to petticoats through rings of cord or braid running around the hem. By the 1830s, women had started to wear petticoats with hoops of whalebone or cane inside the hem.

 

Now that we have a brief history that covers where these beauties came from and their differing names. 

 

 We call our modern verson,

the

 

 

 

 BIRDCAGE SKIRT

 

  

 

PARADE FUN

AMAZING EDITORIALS....

 

HAUTE COUTURE, VALENTINO

 

HAUTE COUTURE MEETS ROYAL WEDDING

COUTRE FOR EVERYDAY (from work to evening)

 

 

 

 

 

AND

 

 

 

 

 

SOME NOT SO SUCCESSFUL BLACK&WHITE VERSIONS

 OF (FARTHINGALE) BIRDCAGE DETAILING ON THE OUTSIDE.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed this little tidbit of information, history and the various examples (those were the pictures).  Till next week, when we discover something new and FABULOUS! 

 

Be on the lookout for a birdcage skirt tutorial coming up soon....